CAD...What about the dang Jeep ?

Working on the body which is tedious and time consuming.

O.K.

First I had to deal with the frame and a few rust areas and try to rust-proof it as much as possible with a rust inhibitor. Installed a new gas tank and gas lines to the front. A lot of stuff was removed and missing, so I had to look up routing for gas lines and such. Installed new brake lines for the front brakes and the rear looks like they were replaced at some point. Then went to work on the tub's interior and bottom pan, patching rust holes, replacing some metal in the pan area, and redoing the rear seat area to lengthen the cargo area for the dog. Will eventually put down a padded mat for her to sit or lie on. I coated the bottom exterior pan with a rust inhibitor and painted it. Coated the interior with rust inhibitor, and etching primer, and then sprayed it with bed liner. Then started on the exterior of the tub which had more issues than originally thought. Someone in the past had skim coated over the rust with a thin layer of Bondo. Sanded all that down to the bare metal to expose any rust and make it easier to apply rust inhibitor once I got rid of bad metal. I am at the stage now where I am smoothing out the minor flaws and dents with Bondo. After that I intend to coat it with rust inhibitor and etching primer. Eventually, I will coat the exterior with bed liner as well. One, it will be cheaper than painting and also hide any minor imperfections in my bodywork skills.

Once that is done, I want to move to the engine and wiring. I have to rewire the entire Jeep since it had no wiring harness, probably going with a Painless wiring hardness. Probably go ahead and buy the gauges for the dash and install them at that time. I will need to rebuild or buy a new carb, a new distributor, and new plugs and wires. Still need to change the oil, but want to coat the cylinders with more mystery oil and turn it over a few times before I do that.

Once I get the engine running, then I will install the front fenders and hood. Then I have to do the brakes, work on the front suspension, and buy new tires.

I figure maybe I will get it on the road sometime in 2025.

One issue with doing bodywork is, that I can't work with Bondo or sanding inside the garage for obvious reasons, so I have to push the Jeep into the sun and heat. I do not last long in the 90-degree weather we have been having and my old shoulders don't last long sanding and grinding. I also suck at welding, so that takes longer and I spent a lot of time practicing on scrap metal. The bodywork is taking a lot longer than I anticipated. The body work is about 70% done at this point.

Hope the update helps.

Once I am finished with it, my guess is, it will be worth about 50c on the dollar for what I will have invested in it. But it appears the value on the 1978 models is headed up, so maybe when I get ready to sell it in 5 years, I might get 70c on the dollar.

Actually, I use Bondo as a generic term for body filler. The brand I am using is Evercoat 125 Rage Ultra. 

Good update. Some thoughts on body filler. It is easier to sand when not 100 percent cured. When it skims over on the top You can sand off the sticky top layer with a scrap piece of sandpaper as it will clog it like glue. Then sand as quickly as you can. It will Cut. Faster when not cured yet. Hope you can find an unused. Painless wiring harness on eBay or somewhere. I have been helping a neighbor with a 65 mustang. He bought a Painless harness. Seems good. They should have left continuous labeling of Painless on each wire off. Would make it easier to read what wire is for

You need to use a " glazing and spot putty " To go over it when done with the filler. If you get it fairly close with filler It won't take much glazing. Glazing can be put over the whole surface and can be spread just like filler. Don't get overly picky with filler but it should be close . Glazing usually comes in a tube and is ready to use. You'll probably want to go over the entire Jeep body with it and then a light wet sanding should make it ready for primer. You may already know this and someone may have a different opinion but don't make your filler do all the work because you have to go over it anyway. The Glazing is a fairly easy job and it doesn't take much final wet sanding by hand .

You may want to do a section of the Jeep and prime that section to avoid getting any surface rust . Should be able to get a spray bomb of primer but make sure it is compatible with your final primer and finish. It may be labeled a " primer/surfacer " but you will not be using it as a surfacer if you don't need any build-up because you have glazed it . This may not take the place of your final primer but will keep things that are prepared ready.