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Post by Crkr 23 on Jan 25, 2024 9:47:19 GMT -5
IMO, I believe paper tuning should come a little later. Starting out you should be more concerned with the fit of the bow, a proper, repeatable grip of the bow, proper alignment and follow through. This is all things that a good pro shop, or better yet lessons can help you with. When you start paper tuning you can end up chasing your tail if you don't have the basics down. Let the pro shop do a basic tune of the bow, you get all of your basic shooting consistent and then I would worry about paper tuning. If you hang with this sport you hear of all kind of methods of tuning,nock tuning, spine alignment, walk back tuning, french tuning, broad head tuning and on and on. Do all these tunes work, yes, are they necessary, probably not unless you are going to become a tournament archer. Some of the best advice offered has been, shoot, shoot and then shoot some more. Enjoy ride.
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Post by meateater on Jan 25, 2024 10:26:08 GMT -5
Kind of nice to see a thread on this forum where there's no bitching, moaning or agendas. Just sportsman trying to help. just remember dont use rage broadheads the owners 2nd wifes nephew drinks bud light, loves ben and jerrys and voted for trump.
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Post by Crkr 23 on Jan 25, 2024 11:03:42 GMT -5
Yes and they are owned by FeraDyne(sp).🤮
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Post by One Man Gang on Jan 25, 2024 14:10:46 GMT -5
One thing that has not been mentioned yet is a solid backwall. Any bow you do end up with shouldn't be sloppy at full draw. You should pull back to the same point every time and the bow should not have any more creep to go farther. Nor should it stop before you get to your full anchor point. This will be necessary for solid, consistency.
As cracker said earlier, every step should be identical every time you draw. Without this you will have no consistency. From a relaxed grip on the riser, to steady and straight arm, to your anchor point.... breathe, release.
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Post by Crkr 23 on Jan 26, 2024 6:56:25 GMT -5
Something else to consider when buying your first bow is brace height. Brace height is the distance from the bow string to the deepest part of the grip. The greater the brace height, the more forgiving the bow will be. The lower the brace height, the faster the bow will be. IMO, stick to a 7" or more brace height. As you developed your archery skills you might try lower brace height bows. Myself, I've shot for over 45 yrs and still prefer a 7" brace height.
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Post by 4ward on Jan 26, 2024 17:19:44 GMT -5
Bear shop in Gainesville was awesome years ago. I don’t know how things are run now, they are under new ownership since then. I had a pretty expensive one 20 yrs ago and took it in to be restrung, I shot it for several years with no issue. Just needed a new string. Guy came out 10 minutes later and told me the thing was bent out of speck. “Pick a new one off the wall” I went home with a brand new bow for free.
Think about a single cam setup, less things to get out of wack.
Faster is harder to tune properly.
Shoot as often as possible, 3 rounds of 3. Don’t start slinging 30 arrows, get tired/frustrated and then start making adjustments. (Like a rifle, it’s the first cold shot that counts)
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Post by Stumpy on Jan 27, 2024 9:44:51 GMT -5
Targets... I've been using a Bulldog target for the last year... got say if your in the market for a target that you will never shoot out, they make it.... if you watch their web site, they post deals all the time. I bought a plus model (way over kill) a $189 target for $99 and free shipping. Their 24x24 fp model is plenty big enough for catching arrows.
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Post by 4ward on Jan 27, 2024 10:53:55 GMT -5
Rinehart makes a good one too. I’ve had the 18-1 laying out back for close to 20yrs. Still works to stop a crappy unloading bolt from the crossbow. It has a couple pulled broadheads inside, so we don’t use it for much else anymore. PLUS…it rolls right out off the way when I pull up on it with the mower!
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Post by james243 on Jan 28, 2024 11:02:39 GMT -5
I was raised shooting arrows into the back side of the ditch across the road from my front yard at a balled up piece of foil. I do have a couple targets now that I was given but I still shoot into the dirt way more often than I use a target. With aluminum arrows this has never been an issue other than eventually rubbing off the anodizing. With carbon arrows I would just use a field point with a slightly larger diameter than the shaft and the shaft shouldn’t be affected much at all. My carbon arrows have an insert/outsert and aren’t bothered by shooting them into the ground. YMMV. My point is you may get by without a target at all.
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Post by Crkr 23 on Jan 28, 2024 13:01:48 GMT -5
I use a large Morrell bag target for field pts. I have various animal target faces that I can hang in front of the bag. When the bag gets worn you can replace the cover for 35 bucks. For broad heads, I use a Block 6x6 than you can shoot into 6 different sides. I recommend that you not shoot out one side before you rotate the target. If you are handy Third Hand Archery, the same people that make those great stabilizer straps for tree stands,sells a DIY kit that makes a great permanent target for field points. I mostly shoot field points for practice. I've found that once my bow was tuned that broad heads and field points that weighed the same, hit the same. If they didn't there was something out of whack, either the bow,the arrow or me. I shoot the field points 100 to 1 over broad heads, but I check myself with the broad heads especially before going on a hunt. JS84, you have received a ton of information on these posts. If you ever have any questions about archery please feel free to PM me.
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Post by JS84 on Jan 29, 2024 8:00:13 GMT -5
I appreciate all the info guys
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Post by JS84 on Feb 1, 2024 11:25:06 GMT -5
Now let's talk about arrows, shaft material, broadheads, FOC. The variations in setup are almost exponential so I'm curious of the logic behind some of yalls choices.
What should I be taking into account?
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Post by One Man Gang on Feb 1, 2024 11:50:47 GMT -5
Now let's talk about arrows, shaft material, broadheads, FOC. The variations in setup are almost exponential so I'm curious of the logic behind some of yalls choices. What should I be taking into account? Lol, now you're really opening up the discussion for arguments and disagreements! I like carbon arrows and muzzy 100gr fixed broadheads. The arrows are 100% true and they break if they are bent past a certain point, vs bend. A 100gr head makes it easier for me to remember weights rather than 125. Get yourself some illumination nocks for hunting. They are a godsend when looking for a arrow, especially in low light. That's all I got for the moment.
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6thgen
Junior Member
Posts: 86
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Post by 6thgen on Feb 1, 2024 12:07:24 GMT -5
All good comments on this thread so far. One thing I will add is when you draw your bow, the bow handle will be between your thumb and palm of your hand. If you roll the back of your hand towards the sky you will see that your forearm rolls away from the string so that you do not scalp yourself with the string when you shoot. If you plan to hunt out of a treestand, practice shooting from one. Good luck and have fun. You will never forget your first deer with a bow.
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Post by 4ward on Feb 1, 2024 12:58:47 GMT -5
Slick Trick makes some nice broadheads, I like the grizz. They have a slightly bigger cut than the muzzy but, there is nothing wrong with muzzy either. I recommend a interlocking 4 blade, you WILL lose blades with most 3 blade points.
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